PUNCH DRUNK
panama rum punch, p. 34
5 recipes to please a crowd
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August 2016
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A U G U S T 2 016 • VO LUM E 16, ISSU E 8 What's your house party cocktail of choice?
PUBLISHER ART DIRECTOR MANAGING EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL ASSOCIATE EDITOR EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR STAFF WRITER PROOFREADER PRODUCTION DESIGNER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Gin Rickey. My father-inlaw makes a mean one.
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Allyson Mace Meera Nagarajan Anything strong Heather Hughes enough to trick my overly responsible Catherine Klene friends into getting Tiffany Leong the party started. Catherine Klene Kristin Schultz Emily Lowery Michelle Volansky Julia Calleo, Jonathan Gayman, Ashley Gieseking, David Kovaluk, Dave Moore, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky Vidhya Nagarajan Glenn Bardgett, Andrew Barrett, Matt Berkley, Katie Herrera, Heather Hughes, Kellie Hynes, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore, Catherine Klene, Tiffany Leong, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Dee Ryan, Kristin Schultz Allyson Mace Jill George, Angie Rosenberg Jill George Amy Hyde Beer Amy Hyde Kathleen Adams, Jennifer Deist, Mitch Mackowiak, Mia Marlotte
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St. Louis, MO 63103 August 2016
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contents AUGUST 2016 editors' picks 9
EAT THIS Original Palestine at Medina Grill
by meera nagarajan 11
HIT LIST 4 new places to try this month
by heather hughes, catherine klene and tiffany leong 14
TRENDWATCH A look at what’s on the plate, in the glass and atop our wish list right now
by heather hughes, catherine klene and kristin schultz
reviews 17
27
NEW AND NOTABLE
ELIXIR
Weber Grill Restaurant & Academy
Make the Bësk of it
by kristin schultz
by michael renner
28
20
VEGETIZE IT
Océano Bistro
by kellie hynes
LUNCH RUSH by andrew barrett
ELTs
31
23
MAKE THIS
The Dark Room
by dee ryan
NIGHTLIFE
Halibut with Asian salad
by matt berkley
last course
PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS
dine & drink 25
A SEAT AT THE BAR
Features 34
PUNCH DRUNK
46
by kristin schultz
by kristin schultz
41
STUFF TO DO
Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake
50
by glenn bardgett, katie herrera and ted and jamie kilgore
Nick Blue
August 2016
halibut with asian salad p. 31
WHAT I DO by catherine klene
MODERN FARMER How Todd Giesert turned happy pigs into cash cows
COVER DETAILS PUNCH DRUNK Panama rum punch from Retreat Gastropub's Tim Wiggins. Get the recipe on p. 39. PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
by michael renner
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editors' picks
EAT THIS
St. Louis is filled with shawarma, but only the beef ORIGINAL PALESTINE from MEDINA GRILL has our hearts. The shawarma is spit roasted and shaved to order, seared with spicy chile-tomato-vinegar sauce to add gusto, then folded into a soft pita along with lettuce, tomato, onion, pickles, a garlicky tahini sauce and a dusting of bitter sumac. It’s an addictive handheld lunch that PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
keeps us coming back over and over again.
MEDINA GRILL, 1327 WASHINGTON AVE., ST. LOUIS, 314.241.1356, MEDINAGRILL.COM
August 2016
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hit list
4 new places to try this month
veggie and specialty pizzas at start bar
START BAR
PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY
Reward your inner child with a trip to Start Bar for skee-ball and boozy snow cones. The surprisingly chic video game-themed space offers 19 arcade games with a variety of fighting, shooting, old-school and multiplayer options that will rotate based on popularity. (And yes, they’re getting Killer Queen, that 10-person game with a cult following.) Once you’ve OD’ed on treats like the Bacon Pancake Shake made with bacon-infused bourbon, pancake batter, maple syrup and vanilla ice cream, order a house-made Neopolitan-style pizza. The weekly specialty offering will please even those without an inner child; a recent version featured a house white sauce, roast chicken, artichokes and spinach with mozzarella cheese. There’s also a long canned craft beer list and a full bar for those committed to acting their age, but we’ll see you at the candy counter before we kick ass at Mario Kart in one of the four game lounges upstairs.
1000 Spruce St., St. Louis, 314.376.4453, startbarstl.com
August 2016
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hit oflist p. 2
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After popping up at Tower Grove Farmers Market, Local Harvest Cafe, Sump Coffee and others, Kitchen Kulture co-owners Christine Meyer and chef Mike Miller finally put down roots at Kounter Kulture. They revamped the former home of Pint Size Bakery, creating a primarily carryout spot with a small, frequently rotating roster of Asian-inspired dishes. Start with a large house-made steamed bun stuffed with breaded pork loin or crisp Mofu tofu. Grab larger entrees like the tender smoked trout on a bed of al dente wax beans; the cold ramen bowl packed with pickled veggies, tender marinated tofu and a perfectly soft-cooked egg; or spicy-savory khao soi with rich red curry, Buttonwood Farms chicken, egg noodles and pickled greens. Sharing with a friend? Load a pizzasized okonomiyaki (an eggy Japanese pancake) with shrimp, bacon and kimchi.
KOUNTER KULTURE
3825 Watson Road, St. Louis, 314.781.4344, Facebook: Kounter Kulture
Louie’s Wine Dive & Clayton Kitchen has won over Claytonites with its quirky decor, indulgent small plates and lively atmosphere. Start with the cheese curds: bits of breaded, fried cheese equally at home in the accompanying serrano dill aioli and classic marinara. Or go bigger with the bluefin-crab poutine, a pile of crab, mushrooms, cheese curds and seafood broth over a bed of crispy shoestring fries. The pork gnocchi is light and fluffy with chunks of tender braised pork swimming in a velvety red wine cream sauce. The wine list is expansive with interesting, unusual options available by the glass, but cocktail fans won’t be disappointed either. Try the refreshing Grandma’s Garden, where cucumber, mint and lime are muddled and mixed with gin and sauvignon blanc for a sweet summer sipper.
LOUIE’S WINE DIVE
16 S. Bemiston Ave., Clayton, 314.875.9373, louieswinedive.com
The name may confound, but those curious enough to stop at Absolute BBQ Indian Wish Grill in Chesterfield won’t be disappointed. Start with an order of plump vegetarian samosas or the bite-sized pieces of spicy ABQ chicken. Lamb, chicken, seafood and vegetable kebabs are offered with five different spice preparations. We fell hard for the succulent chicken kebab with hariyali tangdi, a blend of Indian spices including red chile and masala, served with a fiery mint dipping sauce. For less heat, opt for the goat haleem, a thick stew heady with savory and baking spices. Shredded goat meat and lentils are cooked down to a paste-like texture, perfect for scooping up with a side of naan.
ABSOLUTE BBQ INDIAN WISH GRILL
cold ramen bowl at kounter kulture chicken kebabs at absolute bbq indian wish grill
PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY
arcade games at start bar
17409 Chesterfield Airport Road, Suite C, Chesterfield, 314.200.1111, abarbq.com
August 2016
Sauce's Catherine Klene and Meera Nagarajan discuss the latest dining trends in St. Louis and what’s coming next to the restaurant scene on Sound Bites. Tune in 90.7 KWMU later this month to find out what’s trending now.
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A look at what’s on the plate, in the glass and atop our wish list right now BY HEATHER HUGHES, CATHERINE KLENE AND KRISTIN SCHULTZ
get lit
¡POZ-OLÉ!
Neon isn’t just for dive bars anymore. The beer sign classic has a fancy new job as a fun design element lighting up a number of restaurants around town. It’s the red pulsing heart behind the bar at Olive & Oak. See neon inside Friendship Brewing Co. telling guests where to eat with bright pink letters. Vista Ramen took its name from the massive vintage sign that now glows green in its small Cherokee space.
FIT TO BE FRIED It’s never too early for Chinese food – or completely bastardized, completely delicious American-Asian fusion. Places like The Rice House start mornings off with breakfast fried rice (fried rice with the addition of eggs and a breakfast meat). Half & Half offers a spicy version with scrambled eggs, sausage, jalapeno and grilled onion, while ClevelandHeath goes with green onion, bacon, peas and sesame seeds topped with eggs any style.
KRISPIES TREATS
a better swiss cheese You may not recognize the name, but you’ve probably seen raclette (a funky, nutty Swiss-French cow’s milk cheese that melts like a dream) on a BuzzFeed list or foodie Instagram account. You don’t have to go to Raclette NYC (Yes, a whole restaurant is named for the cheese.) to get it. Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. has topped winter veggies with the stuff on seasonal menus since it opened in The Grove. Larder & Cupboard has held fondue and raclette classes, and chefowner Jim Fiala currently melts this gooey goodness over beef tenderloin at The Crossing. Chefowner Bill Cawthon purchases whole wheels of the stuff and broils until molten, then scrapes it to order over a basket of fries at Frankly Sausages food truck.
Shelve that crisp rice cereal and taste a different take on the childhood classic. Treat House in New York City has put creative spins on the stuff since 2013, and STL is coming around. Chef-owner Kevin Nashan was an early adopter, classing up the snack by incorporating the fat from cooked foie gras and garnishing with slices of the delicacy at Sidney Street Cafe. Shift, Test Kitchen & Takeout offers a rotating selection of nontraditional squares, including flavors like caramel and Sriracha. Newly opened Start Bar ditches crispies altogether, swapping Cheetos for cereal in its treats, and will rotate other versions like Oreo, granola and Cap’n Crunch.
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SPOTLIGHT ON SAMBAL
First there was Sriracha, then pungent gochuchang. Now sambal is heating up plates around town. Planter’s House uses the spicy Southeast Asian chile paste to add heat to pickled eggs, as well as the cornbread crumbs scattered atop its summer salad. Seafood got sauced with the condiment at Hiro Asian Kitchen, where it graced the grilled whole squid, and at Guerrilla Street Food, where it livened up a recent pan-roasted salmon special. The Crossing drops the temp a few degrees, mixing sambal into a cooling aioli for its Maryland blue crabcake sandwich, and a house-made version snuck in with strawberries atop ricotta and fresh snap peas at a recent Sardella pop-up.
Traditional pozole has long held a place on weekend special boards at Mexican restaurants like Lily’s, Taqueria El Bronco and Taqueria Durango. Cleveland-Heath has had pozole on its menu for years, and Kitchen Kulture kept us warm this winter with a pozole verde. Chef Chris Bork at Vista Ramen crossed Japanese and Mexican cultures with a pozole-style ramen full of pulled chicken, hominy and springy ramen noodles. Sidney Street Cafe switched the protein, setting octopus confit swimming in a pozole broth with some chile oil. Meanwhile, Juniper chef-owner John Perkins added a taste of the South with his loose interpretation featuring a country ham consommé with charred tomatoes, black radish, zephyr squash and country ham at a recent pop-up at The Bhive in the Central West End.
Puttin' on the spritz Located at the intersection of low ABV, amaro and great-sounding names is the spritz cocktail. Traditionally made with bitter liqueur, wine and soda, this versatile Italian aperitif is bubbling up everywhere. Olio has seven varieties, a Spritz Hour and the summer motto: “Yes We Spritz.” Vista Ramen also has a whole spritz section on its drink menu. Order a clementine spritz at Eclipse or ask to create your own at Randolfi’s, with one of the largest amari selections in town. August 2016
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reviews All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.
prime kettleburger at weber grill
new and notable Weber Grill Restaurant & Academy BY MICHAEL RENNER PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
Y
ears ago, standing in front of the hot, wide-open kitchen of Weber Grill Restaurant in downtown Chicago, amid the swirling aroma of burning charcoal, I stared in awe at a line of enormous, flame-throwing kettles. “Pretty cool, huh?” asked the general manager, who had sidled up next to me unbeknownst, mimicking my armsfolded stance. He recognized my fascination, even asking if I wanted a job. Lost in the allure of the grills, I almost accepted.
new an d n otable WEBER GRILL p. 17 / lu n ch rush OCÉ ANO BISTRO p. 20 / n ightlife THE DARK ROOM p. 2 3 August 2016
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reviews NEW AND NOTABLE p. 2 of 2
I’ve been a fanatic of the iconic domed backyard kettle cooker as long as I’ve been grilling. I still use the 1997 cobalt blue Weber Performer I received as a wedding gift (which has lasted longer than the marriage). For almost as long, mostly in my head, I’ve advocated for a St. Louis outpost of the chain. Yes, Weber Grill Restaurant is a chain, albeit a very small one with only five locations. This is the first to open since 2007 and the only one with an onsite Weber Grill Academy. It’s a huge, nearly 10,000-square-foot space in the northernmost end of the Galleria.
AT A GLANCE Weber Grill Restaurant & Academy 18 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
OUTSIDE, A MASSIVE RED KETTLE SITS ATOP THE BUILDING: the holy grail (or rather, the holy grill) for Weber devotees, while a freakishly realistic sculpture of Weber inventor George Stephen Sr. greets diners at the entrance. Walking through the doors is like entering Oz, where it’s a cookout every day. Almost every design element alludes to grilling, from the iron grill grate Venn diagram dividing the room to the little grill etched into each wine glass. One thing’s for sure: They certainly know how to capitalize on the primal theme of cooking food with fire. From steaks and burgers to fish and fowl – even pizzas and some salads – fire unites nearly everything on the expansive menu.
Where 1147 St. Louis Galleria, Richmond Heights, 314.930.3838, webergrillrestaurant. com
YOU EXPECT A GREAT BURGER from a company that spent decades perfecting and peddling grills, and the signature Prime Kettleburger was a great one: a coarse ground patty of prime Angus beef – salty, seared, smoky – topped with a slab of sharp Vermont cheddar and bourbon grilled onions sandwiched between a toasted ciabatta roll hefty enough to tame the meat’s juiciness, but fluffy enough to smoosh and grab without everything sliding out into your lap. Less expected was the excellent wood-fired crabcake appetizer, fat with jumbo lump crabmeat and served atop a Southwest salsa of black beans, poblano pepper, smoked corn and tomato. Presented in a small cast-iron skillet with avocado slices and chipotle mayo, it made a worthy shareable starter.
over a tangle of can’t-stop-eating thin, crispy cornmeal-battered onion rings. The ribs looked perfect with a good char and shiny glaze from sticky hickory sauce. The meat was tender with the proper resilience and chew, pulling cleanly off the bone when gnawed, but like the chicken, lacked the essential smoky component.
Steaks also make an appearance, as expected. The 16-ounce boneless Delmonico rib-eye – dry-aged for almost a month – looks big over a mound of garlic mashed potatoes, you will see but it was fire in Weber's thinner than open kitchen expected for the $38 price tag. Beer-can chicken done in a Weber is almost as iconic as the grill itself. The chicken was remarkably juicy, even when cut in half and grill-finished. Remarkable, too, was the utter lack of grilled flavor; I understand the distinction between grilling and barbecuing, but I still expected some noticeable evidence of time spent with charcoal. As it stood, all the bird’s flavor came from Weber’s Beer Can Chicken Seasoning (hints of garlic, onion, red bell pepper and lemon peel), one of a whole line of very specific seasonings available for purchase, and another example of how the chain capitalizes on the Weber allure.
The extensive drink program was anything but phenomenal with an emphasis on (forgettable) cocktails, a deep wine list (eight pinot noirs, four zinfandels!) and 30 craft beers, including Schlafly’s hefeweizen rebranded as Weber’s Backyard Brew.
I suspected the same was true with the baby back ribs appetizer: four small bones (“rib fingers,” as the server called them)
Don’t Miss Dishes Crab cake appetizer, Prime Kettleburger
Vibe Spacious, lodgelike decor with grill references engrained everywhere
I had high hopes for the BBQ Combo (your choice of two or three meats and two sides) as a way to sample how Weber does barbecue. The brisket – described as smoked 14 hours over hickory wood – had the requisite red smoke ring, but again, not the anticipated flavor. Pulled pork was fine, but derived most of its flavor from a slather of hickory barbecue sauce.
THE PLACE IS RUN WITH THE EFFICIENCY OF THE GERMAN TRAIN SYSTEM. When that BBQ Combo arrived with a cold side of broccoli and lukewarm sweet potatoes, it was instantly whisked away and replaced. Servers recite memorized specials with exuberance – the bone-in steak “cuts like velvet” – then move on. As I stood again staring in awe at those giant kettles, I thought about my longed-for St. Louis Weber Grill. I didn’t have any bad meals during my visits; the portions were certainly satisfying, and the atmosphere was comfortably inviting. “Lackluster” was what I thought, as if the curtain had been pulled back, revealing not a wizard, but just a guy and a grill and a company very good at building an empire on allure. There’s nothing wrong with that. But as much as I love the concept of a Weber restaurant, I’ll probably stick to my good ol’ blue grill at home.
Entree Prices $11 to $60
When Mon. to Thu. – 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Fri. and Sat. – 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Sun. 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. August 2016
August 2016
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reviews LUNCH RUSH
Lunch Rush
OCÉANO BISTRO BY ANDREW BARRETT | PHOTOS BY DAVE MOORE
Océano Bistro offers seafood favorites along with some less familiar dishes for the landlocked longing for water. You’ll have more trouble finding parking at this Clayton institution than getting a lunch seat in the large restaurant. Set your sails for the sunny enclosed patio if you can. Otherwise, what Océano’s interior lacks in ambiance it makes up for in fresh flavors.
NEW ENGLAND SEAFOOD CHOWDER Océano’s New England seafood chowder is one of the best in the city. Huge chunks of peekytoe crab were the captains of this flavor ship, rowing alongside perfectly cooked potatoes. The orangey-colored broth was creamy, thick and a little spicy – if you’re one to add hot sauce, you may not need to here. But fear not, aromaphobes; the extra kick was mild and the color provided by a smoked tomato butter topping that brought more complex flavor than heat. With that broth and all the crabmeat, Océano nailed the texture. This complete package could serve as a meal on its own or a great side alternative to fries.
MARYLAND LUMP CRABCAKE Available as an appetizer or a sandwich with a side (It’s called the chipotle crabcake in sandwich form.), the Maryland lump crabcake was firm and not cooked to death. The Fresno chile, fennel, Italian parsley and chives flavoring the cake, along with the chipotle aioli it was served with, edged this seafood staple ahead of ubiquitous, run-ofthe-mill recipes. Sometimes old stalwarts are solid picks.
red chile rock shrimp chopped salad
between crisp buttered bread with tomato and a garlic aioli. The salmon itself wasn’t overly smoky, making for a unique take on grilled cheese that felt both new and familiar. Soft and crunchy, it’s a great first mate to the chowder for a warm, filling meal.
SMOKED SALMON GRILLED CHEESE Smoked salmon grilled cheese are the words you’ve been waiting for. Smoked Gouda was on board with fontina and provolone, all melted
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SALADS As one does in Clayton, you’ll notice many patrons enjoying entree salads at Océano. If they’re munching on the Caesar or red chile rock shrimp chopped, then they’ve got the right idea. The classic Caesar was set apart by small touches: fried capers brought the anchovy through
in the dressing and made the whole dish pop. The chopped salad was a favorite: loaded with morsels of fried shrimp, which tied together the satisfying mashup of tomato, egg, cucumber, prosciutto and avocado, all tossed with a tarragon dressing.
THE DOWNSIDE Everything is brown. With a concept as bright and fresh as Océano’s, it’s curious why the design and decor feel like the drab old belowdecks in a galleon. Food-wise, I was excited to try the tuna burger, which you can order rare. It had great texture, but ended up being bland. Don’t think rare ahi tuna, think tuna fish – which was a disappointment.
Océano Bistro 44 N. Brentwood Blvd., Clayton, 314.721.9400, oceanobistro.com
August 2016
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nightlife
reviews
The Dark Room
NIGHTLIFE
BY MATT BERKLEY | PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
sommelier who opts for artisanal wines and lesser-known industry favorites. A heavily local beer selection (ubiquitous these days, but nonetheless appreciated) featured hits like Perennial Artisan Ales The Dark Room and 4 Hands Brewing Co. Wine Bar and for $5 to $6. Photo Gallery
ORDER IT: The Dark Room
615 N. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.531.3416, thedarkroomstl.com
W
hen the sun goes down in Midtown, a steady crowd fills the neighborhood’s popular wine bar. And once a jazz trio is in full swing on The Dark Room’s small stage, an empty seat is a rare find. Here’s a quick look inside this eclectic Grand Center hot spot. The Look The space is essentially a modern, minimalist art gallery with a well-stocked bar attached. Flat metal sheets line the walls of the main seating area, covered with still photography prints pinned down by magnets. The industrial chairs and tables filling out the Spartan interior, indelicately lit by hanging track lights, serve as a blank canvas. Freeform and casual, the installations are in keeping with the feel of the place, and they continually revolve to feature new artistic talent. A handful of high-tops by the bar afford a great view of Grand Avenue. August 2016
The Food The Dark Room’s menu had its share of hits and misses. Simple options like the chicken-bacon-Swiss cheese flatbread and the Artisan Mix Board, which coupled Volpi charcuterie with some scrumptious cheeses, were just the right savory shared snacks to enjoy with a few friends and few glasses of wine. While it was nice to see main entrees included casual and shareable options, a few of them might need to be reexamined. The chicken Florentine meatballs were notably bland, and it’s pretty hard to screw up a simple caprese, but with hard, pale tomatoes and a barely existent basil sauce garnish, the salad failed to deliver much in terms of flavor. Stick with wine bar standards like cheese and charcuterie.
The Bar The good news is that there was a wide variety of bottles, including some decent Scotch, brandy and liqueurs. The bad news is, after several visits, the classic and signature cocktail menu failed to deliver anything worth ordering twice. The Da Vinci Mode whiskey cocktail was bland rather than tart as advertised, and seemingly nonalcoholic. Worse was the gin-based Everything Nice, an $8 glass of muddled sugar water. You’re safe ordering a Gin and Tonic, but it is a wine bar, after all – and a good one. By-the-glass options were well chosen (a nice spattering of French, Argentine, Spanish, Italian and Californian vineyards) and helpfully broken down by flavor profile in an informative little menu guide for non-connoisseurs. The masterful collection of drinkable reds, whites and sparkling wines, ranging from $7 to $18, is due in part to Denise Mueller, The Dark Room’s certified
The Scene Live music and DJs blow the doors off The Dark Room five nights a week – all for the price of a drink, since there’s never a cover charge. The stage up front hosts real-deal original tunes by up-and-coming artists as well as triedand-true sounds from a variety of serious, professional collaborators. On my visits, sessions were frequented by an upbeat, dressy-casual crowd of older professionals and middle-aged urban dwellers who hovered around the bar chatting and laughing with friends while taking in the music. Rotating bands hit the chords until midnight on weekends, making The Dark Room a popular spot for the after-show crowd from neighboring Powell Hall and The Fabulous Fox Theatre. Many pop in early for a quick drink before hitting their evening show, too. While it may not be as expansive and well known as its neighbors, this edgy and intimate little jazz and wine spot holds its own.
Order one of five flatbreads on The Dark Room’s menu.
Get a bottle of Red Car Chardonnay or Monteviejo Petit Fleur Malbec, or choose from local beers like 4 Hands City Wide.
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dine
& drink the old bakery beer co. porter is dark, with roasted coffee and chocolate notes.
ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN; PHOTO BY JULIA CALLEO
A SEAT AT THE BAR / Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake Soave (so-AH-vey), from the Veneto region of northeast Italy, could easily be mistaken for a classy white Burgundy. The cool climate does magical things for the GLENN BARDGETT flavors and acidity of its Member of the Missouri Wine whites. When I tasted and Grape Board and wine the 2014 Pieropan Soave director at Annie Gunn’s Classico, I felt like I had reconnected with an old friend. With its lovely acidity, nutty aroma and great concentration of flavor and weight, this is near the pinnacle of Italian whites, for only $16. Grapevine Wines and Spirits, grapevinewinesandspirits.com August 2016
Homemade lemoncello is the best way to beat the heat. (That’s with an “e”; limoncello is imported from Italy.) We like to make our own so it’s extra lemon-y (which Jamie loves) and less sweet (which Ted loves). Zest TED AND JAMIE 10 to 12 lemons, avoiding KILGORE the bitter white pith. In a USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart large glass jar or container, and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House combine the zest with 1 750-milliliter bottle 190 proof Everclear. Steep 1 week, strain and stir in 25 ounces simple syrup (equal parts sugar and water heated in a saucepan until the sugar is dissolved). Enjoy chilled or on the rocks.
Dark beers get a bad rep during summer months, but don’t let a blistering heat index turn you away from some of the best pairings for burgers and seasonal produce. Look for dark, deep ruby KATIE HERRERA porters and dry, mediumCo-founder of Femme bodied brown ales. Two Ferment and manager at The Side Project Cellar of my local favorites, The Civil Life Brewing Co. American brown ale and The Old Bakery Beer Co. porter, are classic and showcase spectacular notes of roasted coffee and chocolate. The Civil Life Brewing Co., thecivillife. com; The Old Bakery Beer Co., oldbakerybeer.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 25
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COCKTAILS
left: the deceit of captain shaddock cocktail at randolfi's. right: randolfi's head barman jeffrey moll
make the bësk of it B Y K R I S T I N S C H U LT Z
PHOTO BY PHOTOS BYCARMEN DAVE MOORE TROESSER
Make no mistake: The Cubs and Blackhawks are not the worst things to come out of Chicago. That dubious distinction goes to a distilled grapefruit and wormwood spirit called Malort, more specifically, Bësk. You may know wormwood as one of the flavors in absinthe. Bësk tastes like the result of a reckless one-night stand between mint toothpaste and cough syrup. Even the distiller has trouble finding something nice to say, describing the drink as “violently bitter” with “an effect that lingers on the palate for quite a surprising while” on its website. Bësk is bottled at 100-proof, so there’s the added bonus of a burning gullet to pair with that lingering effect.
Despite its palate-punching acridity, Bësk is creeping onto cocktail menus – and not in that “I triple-dog dare you” way. Bartenders are taming this spirit, harnessing its citrus notes and capitalizing on the wormwood’s bitterness for balance. Bësk’s grapefruit flavor shines in Taste’s To Get Along Alone, a shaken tipple of gin, Yellow Chartreuse, lemon, agave and Gran Classico (an Italian bitter aperitif). The bitter spirit mellows and melds well, creating a light, lemony cocktail that is at once distinctly sour and bitter with a bright, slightly floral finish. “The grapefruit in the Bësk works well with the modern-style gin and elongates the lemon,” said
bar manager David Greteman. “The wormwood lets the flavors ride. It’s herbal and a little sweet from the Chartreuse.” At Randolfi’s, this frog of a spirit turns into a prince of a drink when kissed with gin, lemon, orange liqueur, sauvignon blanc and egg white in The Deceit of Captain Shaddock. The name is a nod to Bësk’s grapefruit essence – a man called Captain Shaddock was rumored to have brought the fruit to the West Indies. The drink has a frothy head and a tropical, floral nose with a citrusy first sip that then rolls deeper, with the grapefruit flavor helped along by the wine, and finishes clean, smooth and orange-laced. “Bësk is bitter but refreshing and clean,” said Randolfi’s head
barman Jeffrey Moll. “It’s good at holding sweeter drinks at bay.” Leaning on Bësk’s more acerbic qualities, Olive & Oak’s Chelsea Little incorporated the spirit into her Coconut Radio, but not before infusing it with dried lavender. Stirred with cold-brewed coffee, Kirk & Sweeney 12-year rum, Clement coconut liqueur and orgeat almond liqueur, this cocktail has a chocolate-coffee nose and starts sweet on the palate before easing to a bitter middle and a rich, botanical finish. “Bësk goes with anything,” Little said. “The grapefruit adds a fruity sweetness, and the wormwood enhances any savory component in the drink.” On its own, Bësk may be an acquired taste, but the sum of
its parts make it a valuable tool behind the stick. Want to give it a shot? Our experts recommend trying it at room temperature to get the full experience. (Warning: Your friends may Instagram your reaction.) Or try it over ice with club soda or tonic water and a squeeze of lemon.
Olive & Oak 102 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.736.1370, oliveandoakstl.com Randolfi’s 6665 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.899.9221, randolfis.com Taste 4584 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, 314.361.1200, tastebarstl.com
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VEGETIZE IT
ELTs BY KELLIE HYNES | PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER
T
he controversial presidential race has created numerous opportunities for reasonable, well-mannered debates between Carnivore Bob and me (which I win, if he wants dinner). But all civility is lost when the subject of bacon arises. Depending on your side of the meat aisle, these smoky slices are either the best part of Sunday brunch (Carnivore Bob) or nitrate-filled strips of pig death (yours truly). In the interest of family unity, I decided to make a filling, flavorful, meat-free BLT tasty enough to win Carnivore Bob’s vote.
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In spite of our opposing viewpoints, we both agree that no fake meat can replace the B in our BLT. While seitan “bacon” is a tasty treat, if you’re using quotation marks, it’s not bacon. Instead, I concentrated on the individual elements that make pork belly so crave-worthy. The easiest component to replicate is bacon’s toothsome texture. Eggplant, sliced lengthwise in ¼-inch strips, offers a chewy mouth feel similar to thick-cut bacon. Some folks salt their eggplant to prevent it from tasting bitter, but you can skip this step by using a small, fresh eggplant. I added umami notes by marinating the eggplant in a soy-based vinaigrette, then searing it on the Weber for pretty grill marks and charred edges. If you don’t want to fire up a grill for less than 10 minutes of cooking, sear the eggplant in a grill pan on the stovetop. Romaine lettuce leaves are fresh and plentiful this time of year, and add a crisp bite to every mouthful. Toasting the sandwich bread also adds crunch. I recommend sturdy, fiber-dense wheat breads like Ezekiel 4:9 Sprouted Whole Grain Bread or Whole Foods Market Seeduction. So far my ELT tasted bright and summery, but it lacked the special, unexpected flavor that would make Carnivore Bob sit up and chow down. Smoked paprika adds a deep, smoldering flavor to my shakshuka, a tomato-rich stew. I wondered if a different tomato treatment could deliver the earthy spice throughout the ELT. Tomato jam is a
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rich concoction slow-simmered down into a sweet and savory spread. Adding smoked paprika made the jam – and my sandwich – absolutely transcendent.
¼ tsp. ground cumin 8 slices hearty whole-grain bread, toasted 4 leaves romaine lettuce
This recipe yields more than a cup of jam, even though you only need a heaping tablespoon for each ELT. Friends, make the full amount – you’ll want to lick up every last drop. Try it on a Gruyere grilled cheese, or dab a bit behind your ears. Even Carnivore Bob is a fan, although to tell the truth, he dips his bacon in it. Because in marriage, if not in politics, compromises can be made.
• Trim the eggplant and cut lengthwise into ¼-inch slices. Select the 4 largest slices from the middle of the eggplant, reserving the remaining for another use. • In a small bowl, combine the soy sauce, olive oil, maple syrup, balsamic vinegar and garlic. Add the marinade and eggplant slices to a large zip-close bag. Let rest at room temperature until the tomato jam is done. • Meanwhile, reserve 2 tomatoes and cut the rest in half lengthwise, then use a small spoon to scrape out and discard the cores and seeds. Dice into ½-inch pieces. • In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, add the diced tomatoes, onion, brown sugar, granulated sugar, lemon juice, salt, smoked paprika, pepper and cumin. Cook, stirring frequently, until the liquids release and come to a boil, 5 to 7 minutes. • Reduce the heat to low and simmer 1½ to 2 hours, stirring occasionally, until you can scrape the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon and the jam doesn’t run back onto itself. Remove from heat, taste, and add more smoked paprika if desired. Let cool completely. Reserve ¼ cup for sandwiches, and set aside the remainder for another use. Jam will keep covered in the refrigerator up to 5 days. • Preheat a grill pan or prepare a charcoal grill for direct, mediumhigh heat. • Remove the eggplant slices from the marinade and place on the grill or grill pan. Cook until the edges brown and dark grill marks appear, about 4 minutes per side. Set aside. • Cut the remaining 2 tomatoes
ELT WITH SMOKED PAPRIKA TOMATO JAM 4 sandwiches 1 1-lb. eggplant 2 Tbsp. soy sauce 1 Tbsp. olive oil 1 Tbsp. maple syrup 1 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar ½ tsp. minced garlic 2 lbs. Roma tomatoes, divided 1 small yellow onion, diced ½ cup brown sugar ½ cup granulated sugar 2 Tbsp. lemon juice ½ tsp. kosher salt ½ tsp. smoked paprika, plus more to taste ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
horizontally into ¼-inch slices. Smear 1 heaping tablespoon of the reserved tomato jam on 1 piece of toast. Add a romaine leaf, a slice of grilled eggplant and a few tomato slices. Top with another slice of toast; repeat with the remaining ingredients to make 3 more sandwiches.
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MAKE THIS HALIBUT WITH ASIAN SALAD ACTIVE TIME: 15 MINUTES
Throw together this light summer dish just for the MAKE THIS halibut. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. In a medium bowl, whisk together ¼ cup soy sauce, 3 tablespoons lime juice, 3 tablespoons rice vinegar, 2 tablespoons grated ginger, 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, 1 tablespoon sesame oil and 1 teaspoon sugar. Reserve ¼ cup dressing and set aside. Place 2 8-ounce halibut fillets and the remaining dressing in a zip-close bag, then seal and refrigerate 15 minutes. Meanwhile, trim 1 English cucumber, peel to create wide ribbons and place in a medium bowl with 3 peeled and diced peaches and any collected juices, ½ cup torn cilantro, the reserved ¼ cup dressing, 3 chopped scallions and ½ teaspoon minced Serrano pepper. Toss to combine and set aside. Place halibut on a parchment-lined baking sheet and bake 12 to 14 minutes, until cooked through. Divide the salad between 2 plates and top with the halibut. – Dee Ryan
PHOTO BY JULIA CALLEO
You can substitute any white fish in this recipe. Thicker fish like cod and snapper will need longer marinating and cooking times, but thinner fillets like tilapia and trout will need less.
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PUNCH DRUNK by kristin schultz \\ photos by carmen troesser
Riverfront
punch recipe on p. 39
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Panama rum punch
r e c i p e
qual parts convenient and quaffable, punches are an easy way to sate the thirsty masses without getting stuck bartending all night. Recipes can range from light and cheery to spicy and brooding and can be adapted to suit just about any taste. Far from the questionable collegiate mixture of whatever is laying around plus Everclear, real punch is a balanced mix of spirits, sugar, spice, water and citrus. It predates the cocktail by a good 200 years – probably invented by early 17th century English (or Dutch) colonial sailors out of necessity, according to David Wondrich in his book, Punch: The Delights (and Dangers) of the Flowing Bowl. Beer and
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wine were too heavy to haul and spoiled on the journey, so enterprising seamen substituted stronger, stable spirits, cut the swill with water and added sugar. Add citrus to combat scurvy and spice from the Indies, and voila: punch! Today, recipes for this batchable social lubricant have evolved beyond the colonial basics, but the principles of communal imbibing and conviviality remain.
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bartender and St. Louis chapter president of the U.S. Bartenders’ Guild. “When I make punch, I like to keep the process fairly simple, focusing on garnishes and a fun key ingredient.” Grab a bowl and some booze and test your sea legs with one of these recipes.
“Punches generally are not meant to be extremely boozy, but rather more refreshing and approachable with an interesting flavor that keeps you coming back for just one more,” said Keyan Still, Planter’s House
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make this Oleo saccharum, which just means oil sugar, is a classic punch ingredient and a cocktail secret weapon. As simple as muddling citrus zest into sugar and allowing the fruit’s oils to infuse, oleo saccharum adds concentrated citrus flavor to any drink it touches. Recipe on p. 39
R E A D
T H I S
Thirsty for more? Check out James Beard Award-winning David Wondrich’s book, Punch: The Delights (and Dangers) of the Flowing Bowl – a ladle full of everything you never knew you wanted to know about this bulk elixir. $25. Left Bank Books, 399 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.367.6731, left-bank.com 36 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
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B R E A K T H E M O L D Ice rings, molds and blocks do more than keep things chilly; they sing as a garnish or provide a flavor boost to your punch. Here, nine do’s and don’ts from former Blood & Sand bartender Matt Osmoe to help the bowl stay cool for your punch party.
D O
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• Use creative containers like plastic storage ware, silicone molds, loaf pans or Bundt pans to make ice. • Garnish with complementary flavors that will incorporate well as the ice melts into your punch, like berries and ginger for sweet punches. • Use filtered or distilled water for
clearer and better-tasting ice. • Branch out from H2O. Try freezing lemonade for use in bright, gin-based punches, vermouth for botanical-noted tipples or some of your punch itself, if the ABV allows it. • After freezing overnight, turn the mold upside-down and run under lukewarm water for a few seconds to release.
D O N ’ T • Let your ice melt too fast. Chill the ingredients before mixing up a punch to preserve the freeze, or make and refrigerate a batch ahead of time (excluding any bubbles, which should be added right before serving). • Make an ice block with a container that’s too big for your
bowl, since the ice should be submerged in the punch. • Use small herbs like thyme or dill as garnish – they’ll turn into unattractive floaties when the ice melts. • Abuse the ingredients you use. Overripe or soft fruits like bananas don’t make a good ice garnish since they’ll fall apart and leave your punch cloudy. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 37
Black River Punch
ORDER A COOL GLASS OF HISTORIC LIBATION AT THESE LOCAL SPOTS
Historic Punch Lona’s Lil Eats 2199 California Ave., St. Louis, 314.925.1888, lonaslileats.com
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Mississippi Punch Juniper 360 N. Boyle Ave., St. Louis, 314.329.7696, junipereats.com
Planter’s House Punch Planter’s House 1000 Mississippi Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.2603, plantershousestl.com
Planter’s Punch Sanctuaria 4198 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.535.9700, sanctuariastl.com
August 2016
RECIPES Panama Rum Punch
Courtesy of Retreat Gastropub’s Tim Wiggins 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 2 limes, sliced 1 750-ml. bottle Caña Brava rum 12 oz. lime juice 6 oz. simple syrup 6 oz. grenadine 2 oz. Angostura bitters • The night before, add the lime slices to a 1-pint container. Fill with water, cover and freeze overnight. • In a large punch bowl, combine all remaining ingredients and stir to incorporate. • Add the ice block just before serving.
Black River Punch
Courtesy of Retreat Gastropub’s Tim Wiggins 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 1 grapefruit, sliced 1 lime, sliced 6 oz. honey 3 oz. warm water 1 750-ml. bottle Appleton Estate rum 8 oz. Averna Amaro 8 oz. grapefruit juice 8 oz. lime juice • The night before, add the grapefruit and lime slices to a 1-pint container. Fill with water, cover and freeze overnight.
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• In a small bowl, whisk together the honey and warm water to make honey syrup. • In a large punch bowl, combine the rum, Averna, grapefruit and lime juices and 8 ounces honey syrup. Stir to combine. • Add the ice block just before serving.
The Italiano Punch
Courtesy of Planter’s House’s Keyan Still
leaves, reserving the rest. Fill with water, cover and freeze overnight. • In a large punch bowl, combine the gin, Contratto Bianco, Aperol, lemon and grapefruit juices, and 6 ounces oleo saccharum, reserving the rest. Stir until the sugar dissolves. • Gently pour in the sparkling water and prosecco. Taste for sweetness and add more oleo saccarum if necessary, gently stirring to dissolve. • Add the ice block, strawberries and remaining mint just before serving.
16 TO 20 SERVINGS 4 lemons 2 grapefruits 1½ cups sugar 30 mint leaves 1 750-ml. bottle Rieger’s Midwestern Dry Gin 1 750-ml. bottle Contratto Bianco 1 750-ml. bottle Aperol 12.5 oz. lemon juice 12.5 oz. ruby red grapefruit juice 12.5 oz. sparkling water 12.5 oz. Scarpetta prosecco 1 cup sliced strawberries • The night before, peel the rinds from the lemons and grapefruits, avoiding the pith and reserving the fruit. Muddle the peels with the sugar until wet with oils, making an oleo saccharum. Cover and let sit 1 hour, then remove the peels and refrigerate. • Meanwhile, slice the lemons and grapefruits. To a 1-pint container, add as many fruit slices as can fit with 10 mint
Riverfront Punch Courtesy of BC’s Kitchen’s Justin Cardwell 10 TO 14 SERVINGS 1 cup sliced strawberries 1 cucumber, peeled and sliced 6 oz. honey 3 oz. warm water 1 750-ml. bottle Hendrick’s Gin 12 oz. lime juice 12 oz. unsweetened pineapple juice 25 oz. ginger beer 8 to 10 dashes Peychaud’s Bitters
• The night before, add the strawberries and half the cucumber slices to a silicone Bundt pan or 1-quart container. Fill with water, cover and freeze overnight. • In a small bowl, whisk together the honey and warm water to make honey syrup. • In a large punch bowl,
combine the gin, lime and pineapple juices, 8 ounces honey syrup, ginger beer and bitters. • Add the ice block just before serving. Garnish glasses with the remaining sliced cucumber.
Spring in Sao Paulo Punch Courtesy of BC’s Kitchen’s Justin Cardwell 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 1 750-ml. bottle silver cachaca ½ lb. strawberries, hulled and chopped 1 Tbsp. dried lavender buds 1½ cups mixed berries, divided 13 oz. St. Germain elderflower liqueur 25 oz. unsweetened pineapple juice 8 oz. lime juice 1 750-oz. bottle brut cava
• The day before, combine the cachaca, strawberries and lavender buds in a pitcher, cover and let sit at room temperature 24 hours, then strain and store in an airtight container. • Meanwhile, fill a silicone Bundt pan or 1-quart container with 1 cup mixed berries and water, cover and freeze overnight. • In a large punch bowl, combine the infused cachaca, St. Germain and pineapple and lime juices. Gently pour in the cava and add the ice block just before serving. Garnish glasses with the remaining mixed berries.
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modern farmer HOW TODD GEISERT TURNS HAPPY PIGS INTO CASH COWS BY MICHAEL RENNER \\ PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
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I T S TA RT E D W I T H A P O R K C H O P : T H I C K , B O N E I N , S I M P LY S E A S O N E D A N D PA N S E A R E D. G R E E N S , W H I P P E D P O TAT O E S , R OA S T E D G A R L I C S AU C E , W H AT E V E R T H E A C C O M PA N Y I N G S I D E D I D N ’ T M AT T E R . I T S O U N D S O D D, B U T T H E C H O P TA S T E D L I K E P O R K – L I K E H O W M E AT F R O M A NAT U R A L LY R A I S E D A N I M A L S H O U L D TA S T E . T H E C H O P ’ S M E LT I N G S U C C U L E N C E A N D D E N S E T E X T U R E C A R R I E D M E B E YO N D P H YS I C A L H U N G E R I N T O T H E R E A L M O F L I C E N T I O U S A P P E T I T E . I AT E L I K E A P R OV E R B I A L P I G .
This was probably 2009, when Local Harvest Cafe still served dinner. It was the first time I took notice of what I had considered a flavorless, insipid meat that demanded a long stay in the smokehouse, a rub of spice or a slather of sauce to divert the palate. None of that was necessary for this chop from Todd Geisert Farms near Washington. It became my go-to meal. Since then, I’ve wanted to meet the man whose name is synonymous with some of the best pork in the region.
todd geisert taking care of business at his farm
It’s a short jaunt off the straight, four-lane Highway 100 in Washington to the Old Highway 100 with two wide lanes and enough twists and curves to lure sports cars and motorcycles out on nice weekends. Pulling into the gravel driveway of Todd Geisert Farms on a hot, sunny morning, I was struck by how iconic everything looked. From the grain bins and hopper tanks to the old tractors and barn with the faded red galvanized roof – if not quite Mayberry, the whole setup seemed frozen somewhere in the 1950s. The farm even has a drive-up produce stand and meat cooler where customers can grab what they want and pay on the honor system, slipping money into a lockbox. Not much has changed on the farm since 1916, when Ben F. Geisert started raising hogs on land that was in the family since 1887. Eventually, horsedrawn wagons gave way to tractors and pickups, but the core operation (raising pigs by hand) has remained consistent for the past 100 years. What has changed is everything outside the farm – from the proliferation of large-scale commercial farming and the vertical integration of production at all levels to narrower markets and even narrower profit margins for small farmers. It’s the fifth-generation Geisert who’s responsible for propelling the family business into this new landscape, changing the way Geisert pork is sold rather than raised.
When I pulled up, Todd Geisert was waiting for me outside at a rickety picnic table, scrolling through his iPhone and proving two adages: Farmers never get a day off, and today’s farmer must be connected to be competitive (even if that means conducting business over the phone while literally standing in the field). He was outfitted in cargo shorts, a short-sleeved Geisert Farms work shirt and muddy work boots that made my Nikes seem downright
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ridiculous – clearly belonging to a city slicker out for a day at the farm. “They’ll be fine,” Geisert said matterof-factly. “The ground’s dry enough.” At 5 feet 7 inches, the 47-year-old farmer is a solidly built barrel of a man with a bushy, reddish beard and piercing green eyes peering out beneath an ever-present Geisert Farms cap. He has the ruddy
complexion of a man who works outside and speaks with the clipped, quick delivery of someone wanting to get on with it. “Well, let’s go,” he said. The swine were hungry, time was money, and weather dictated everything in this business. The natural smell of manure was the first thing I noticed in the field, not overwhelming, but there.
Geisert was quick to point out that the smell from his farm is far less noticeable than large operations where hogs are kept indoors. If you’ve been anywhere near a large, commercial hog operation, the retching smell of waste from thousands of animals confined in spaces as small as 7 square feet hits you well before the plant is visible. You can really only smell Geisert’s pigs in the field. Raising them outdoors allows the sun to do its job of breaking down waste, Geisert explained. “It’s how we keep the stink down.” The second thing I noticed was the surprising visual beauty of hundreds of pigs roaming freely on acres of land. They wallowed in mud, grazed on a grassy hillside, lay in the shade and rooted around for whatever pigs root around for. “They can go out and be a pig (here),” Geisert said. As if on cue, a herd of piglets ran squealing through the calf-high grass, their ears and tails flapping like a pack of puppies.
Geisert is a one-man marketing machine with seemingly endless endurance, like a shark needing to constantly swim.
We trekked to a group of cozy, 7-by-8-foot portable wooden A-frame huts where huge sows farrow, or give birth, to litters of piglets. “They keep the mamas happy,” Geisert said. The structures, built by three generations of Geiserts, play a crucial role in providing safe, warm shelter until the piglets are weaned. Over the years, he’s maintained and patched the huts with pieces of damaged billboards he gets free from a local sign company. For the bigger hog houses, Geisert cut old fuel tanks in half. Rotation and portability are key to the operation. Each season, Geisert explained, the huts are put on skids and moved to an area where crops were harvested the previous season. Nothing is wasted; as the pigs roam, they eat anything left over after harvest, aerating the soil and fertilizing the next crop with their waste. And so the cycle continues every six months, about the time it takes to raise a 300-pound hog from birth to market. It’s a self-sustaining system, right down to the solar-powered irrigation he installed for the crops. Geisert filled a bucket with grain from a feed shed while a crowd of very sizeable gilts (young pregnant females less than 9 months old) congregated, grunting in hungry anticipation. In addition to foraging, they get a mixture of soybeans and corn grown on the farm – without any antibiotics or growth hormones typically used by large commercial operations. Geisert raises four breeds of heritage hogs: Berkshire, Duroc, Hampshire and Chester White. Pasture raising makes the final product juicier and deeper in color. “(It’s) what all the chefs want,” he said. August 2016
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The new venture fits Geisert’s energy level, incarnating a grand idea to transform how food gets from the farm to, well, you.
Geisert never names his swine, but he did describe them in human development terms. Those gilts were the pregnant teens. Piglets were like kids, always running around. Sows were the mamas, mature pigs who had birthed at least one litter. The papas were the boars, breeders good for about two litters a year. With approximately 100 to 150 sows, Geisert can count on 1,000 to 1,500 market hogs each year. “The mamas and papas are my moneymakers,” he said. And the fat field sows were like old ladies, always nosing into your business. Those he sells to Jimmy Dean.
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Geisert was born into a family of entrepreneurs, spanning from his great-greatgrandfather, Ben F. Geisert, who started the practice of rotating crops and pigs after studying agriculture and animal husbandry at University of Missouri, to his 20-year-old son, Ben J. Geisert, who started his own Moonshine Valley Farms, raising rabbits and ducks. “It’s what we grew up doing,” Geisert said. “I don’t like sitting still very much.” In high school, he started a welding and fabrication business he ran for 10 years because he liked building things and fixing people’s problems. “My philosophy is that the worst
thing I can do is not try, because it’s not going to work if you don’t try.” It’s a philosophy that helped Geisert change the scope of the farm in 2008. When his father, D. John Geisert, ran the farm, most of its hogs were sold to Niman Ranch, a national network of family-run livestock farms. When dad retired around 2007, Geisert saw an opportunity to capitalize on the growing restaurant trend of procuring local meat and produce. He started labeling pork products under the Geisert name, doubling the selection to more than 60 products, with more in development. August 2016
trouble and expense of working with a local farmer for just one menu item. “There’s more loss with commodity pork (from a big food distributor),” he explained. “We don’t have to clean (Geisert’s pork) much because of the high quality. It’s more expensive, but there’s less waste.” Peacemaker goes through five butts a week, about 60 pounds, to make its sausages, and almost as much produce – red and green tomatoes and bibb lettuce, all grown in soil fertilized by those pigs last season. Over at The Mud House Coffee & Kitchen on Cherokee Street, I learned the kitchen used to get pork shoulder from a large supplier but found Geisert’s a better product for confit. “His is a whole next level of taste and texture,” sous chef Pat Grosch said. Mud House goes through about 50 pounds of Geisert potatobacon sausage a week for its thick, heavy gravy served over scratch-made biscuits. “We like what he’s doing, and he’s really friendly to work with,” Grosch said. top: geisert at far m to you mark et; bottom: a todd geisert far ms deliver y truck
While not vertically integrated, Geisert keeps all aspects of the operation close by, relying on a handful of butchers and processors in the surrounding area. Now Niman Ranch gets about 300 to 400 of the 1,000 hogs sent for butchering, with remaining hogs going to local restaurants and Geisert-labeled retail products.
Across the street at Midwest Pasta, pasta maker David Burmeister echoed what I’d heard from everyone else. “Geisert’s a straight-up guy with lots of ideas, who’s easy to work with,” he said. Burmeister collaborated with Geisert on a ravioli test product filled with tomato-basil-mozzarella brat meat to sell at Geisert’s new market.
As he hung up, a couple of locals walked by. “How ya guys doing? Out causing trouble?” he quipped. Geisert is a one-man marketing machine with seemingly endless endurance, like a shark needing to constantly swim. Another man he knew was mulling over a freezer case. “Whatcha looking for, chief?” he asked. “Keep looking and you’ll get hungry.” The freezer case, like the shelves, cooler and racks, was fully stocked. Produce, meats, cheeses, condiments, beer, wine, spirits, eggs and frozen goods were all produced within 200 miles of the store. Ultimately, Geisert told me, he wants a portfolio big enough to cover the state, or multiple states, with product and distribution. I was exhausted just thinking about it. I asked what keeps him going, and he laughed, then stalled. It’s hard for someone in constant motion to pause and reflect. “I guess my responsibility to make everything happen,” he said. “Livestock has to be fed every day. I have people that rely on me.” Geisert knows most farmers don’t want to talk to people much or sell themselves; they want to work their farms their way. Someone like Geisert – a farmer, entrepreneur, marketer, networker and deliveryman – is a rarity. Now with the added responsibility of opening new markets for other farmers’ and vendors’ products, he’s evolved the family business into yet another phase. Farm to You Market represents the future of Geisert’s career and will help give his heritage farm, along with many others, a future. Must be a lot of pressure, I commented. “Yep.”
He also began growing more produce. Starting with fewer than 150 tomato plants, mostly for the drive-up stand, he now has more than 5,000. He added more vegetables to the rotation and started supplying more than 40 St. Louis-area restaurants and nearly as many retail markets from Edwardsville to Columbia, Missouri. Geisert makes most of those deliveries himself in a truck with his smiling face plastered on the side.
His cell phone rang with what sounded like grunting pigs. “This is Todd,” he answered with his quick cadence and rural inflection. We were walking around the gleaming Farm to You Market and Distribution Center, a 10,000-square-foot grocery store, deli, cafe and wholesale food hub he opened with his wife, Katie Geisert, in April.
Wednesdays are delivery days for St. Louis. I met Geisert at Peacemaker Lobster & Crab, chef-owner Kevin Nashan’s Benton Park restaurant, where they serve a killer link sandwich made from Geisert pork butt, ground in-house. While Geisert rapidly unloaded and schlepped the order from truck to cooler, I asked Peacemaker chef de cuisine John Messbarger why he’d go through all the
The new venture fits Geisert’s energy level, incarnating a grand idea to transform how food gets from the farm to, well, you. “We’re working in collaboration with other farmers and purveyors to get a better distribution network so that we can take a product line to restaurants and grocery stores that complements the small guy, whether it’s a drug-free, pasture-raised protein or an organic elderberry drink or a different ice cream than everybody is used to,” he had explained in a burst when we arrived.
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It was the longest sentence Geisert offered during our conversations, and his mission statement was crystal clear. Given how many banks Geisert told me turned down investing in the venture, he had obviously delivered countless similar spiels in the past couple years (A bank in neighboring Union finally loaned him the capital, proving again that whether in food or money, it pays to stay local.).
Geisert Farms 4851 Old Highway 100, Washington, 314.791.6942, toadspigs.com Farm to You Market 5025 Old Highway 100, Washington, 844.682.2266 (1-84-Got Bacon), farmtoyoumarket.com Lucky’s Market luckysmarket.com Local Harvest localharvestgrocery.com
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stuff to do:
AUGUST BY KRISTIN SCHULTZ
Wicked Wine Run Aug. 13 – 6 to 9 p.m., Cedar Lake Cellars, 11008 Schreckengast Road, Wright City, 636.745.9500, wickedwinerun.com Loosen up those hammies and get ready to run for your wine. Participants can fly through a 5K and celebrate with a glass of riesling or Fire Truck (a sweet red wine) at the finish line, or they can proceed slow and steady through the leisurely 1K walk and wine tasting. Four stops along the route offer tastings of Cedar Lake wines like pinot gris and ‘57 Chevy, a blended Missouri red. Cool down at the after-party and enjoy wood-fired pizza, smoked pork or chicken sandwiches and live music. Register online.
Grub & Groove Aug. 13 – 3:30 to 10 p.m., Francis Park, 5400 Donovan Ave., St. Louis, grubandgroovestl.com Grab your picnic blankets and dance your way to St. Louis Hills for Grub & Groove. Wander through 10 food stalls featuring picnic fare for sale from neighborhood favorites like J McArthur’s, Adam’s Smokehouse, Onesto Pizza & Trattoria, Russell’s on Macklind and Mama’s on The Hill. Leave the coolers at home and grab a glass of suds onsite.
Tomato Fest Aug. 14 – noon to 6 p.m., Iron Barley, 5510 Virginia Ave., St. Louis, 314.351.4500, ironbarley.com Celebrate the T in BLT at Iron Barley. Enjoy an afternoon dedicated to the
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summer staple and sample produce from local vendors, view tomato-inspired arts and crafts, and enter contests for the most unusual looking tomato and the best bloody mary featuring concoctions from pros and amateurs alike. While you’re there, snack on Iron Barley’s BLTs and firegrilled pizzas. Proceeds benefit Lift for Life Gym.
Rock the Hops Aug. 20 – 2 to 8 p.m., Downtown Alton, rockthehops2016.bpt.me Brews and tunes come together in downtown Alton. Pick up your commemorative glass, then hop on the shuttle and visit six area venues to sample more than 25 beer styles from breweries including 4204 Main Street Brewing Co., Kirkwood Station Brewing Co., Peel Brewing Co., The Old Bakery Beer Co. and Perennial Artisan Ales. While you sip, check out more than 30 local artists and 25 live bands all afternoon. Tickets available online.
UCBC Blues & Que Aug. 20 – noon to 6 p.m., UCBC Midtown Brewery & Biergarten, 3229 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.222.0143, urbanchestnut.com Catch the final summer installment of Urban Chestnut’s festival of all things St. Louis: beer, blues and barbecue. Get a half-liter, liter or stein filled with UCBC favorites and seasonal brews, and load your plate with smoky, sauced of-the-moment food from chef Andy Fair, then take in the tunes in the Biergarten. August 2016
International Institute’s Festival of Nations Aug. 27 – 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.; Aug. 28 – 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4256 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, festivalofnationsstl.org Eat, shop and experience St. Louis diversity at the International Institute’s Festival of Nations. Choose from more than 40 food vendors cooking up fare like Mexican tamales, Filipino kebabs and sweet baklava. Take in performances like Spanish flamenco and Vietnamese dragon dancing, then peruse vendor stalls featuring African drums, Russian nesting dolls and jewelry. Purchase a copy of the Festival of Nations cookbook featuring a recipe from each of this year’s food vendors.
sponsored events Food Truck Friday Aug. 12 – 4 to 8 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4256 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, 314.772.8004, saucefoodtruckfriday.com An array of mobile meal slingers line up in Tower Grove Park once again for Food Truck Friday. Dine on grub from Pyro Pizza and Gioia’s Deli, then grab a beer from 4 Hands Brewing Co. or Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. and sip along to the folksy tunes of The Dust Covers. Shirt Kong screenprints all the FTF swag your heart desires to order.
St. Louis World’s Fare Festival Aug. 19 – 4 to 10 p.m.; Aug. 20 and 21 – 10 a.m. to 10 p.m, World’s Fair Pavilion, Forest Park, St. Louis, 314.853.6257, stlworldsfare.com The third annual St. Louis World’s Fare interweaves historical displays of St. Louis’ past, present and future with live music, a August 2016
local business expo, an artist’s village, backyard games and a U.S. Bartenders’ Guild mixology competition. Browse an edible bazaar at the Culinary Pike, which features food from 15 restaurants and food trucks including I Scream Cakes, Steve’s Hot Dogs, Bombay Food Junkies, STL BLT and more.
Alton Food Truck Festival Aug. 27 – 4 to 8 p.m., Liberty Bank Alton Amphitheater, 1 Riverfront Drive, Alton, 800.258.6645, libertybankamphitheater.com Nearly 20 food trucks venture across the Mississippi River to the Alton Food Truck Festival. Descend to the Liberty Bank Amphitheater to dine al fresco from the likes of Doughboy’s Wood-Fired Pizza, Completely Sauced and Brazil Express and enjoy live music from headliner Boogie Chyld. Spread your picnic blanket on the lawn for free or pick up VIP tickets that include parking, two drinks and open seating in the amphitheater.
The Rise Up Festival Aug. 20 – 2 to 11 p.m., 1627 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.333.7008, riseupfestival.org Head downtown for The Rise Up Festival, an outdoor showcase of 15 artists, around 20 craft vendors and street performers. Purchase food from downtown area eateries like Medina Grill, Bootleggin’ BBQ, Snarf’s and more. While you snack, enjoy beer from Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. and live music from The Original Wailers and several local bands all day.
Tower Grove Farmers’ Market Saturdays – 8 a.m. to 12:30 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4256 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, tgmarket.org The Tower Grove Farmers’ Market overflows with fresh produce, meats, cheese, bread, artisan goods and more. Pick from vendors like Biver Farms, Three Rivers Community Farms and Kitchen Kulture. Arrive early to take advantage of free yoga and qi gong classes before you fill your market bag. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 47
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WHAT I DO
Nick Blue
First week on the job “I was walking through the (old Niche) dining room carrying two cases of eggs by the handles and … one bottom fell out and the whole case just breaks in the middle of the dining room. … I was like, ‘Oh God, this is my first true professional kitchen.’”
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From-scratch kitchen “(Brasserie) was a well-oiled machine already. … To start over from scratch – it’s been a little nerve-wracking, to say the least. I’ve never done this before. I don’t know what to do every single time, but I try to make that call and ask for forgiveness later.”
Attitude adjustment “The whole kitchen culture (at Sardella) is changing. … We can go back to having fun and start cooking the food that’s why we started cooking. It’s going to be a little more casual (than Niche).”
Most important meal of the day “I’m a breakfast fan, but not at breakfast hours. Recently the Sardella kitchen management team has been hooked on Original Pancake House in Ladue. We get the breakfast sandwiches to go. It’s on sourdough with egg, ham and I add American cheese.”
The two things I usually ask for are tres leches cake or a strawberry-rhubarb pie.”
Retirement plans “My dream retirement job is to have a taco stand on the beach – somewhere in Key West probably. … I came up with that big plan after a few drinks at Big Star (in Chicago). I was eating their fish tacos and I was like, You know what? I’m going to live on a beach one day and retire and make fish tacos. And Sarah wants to do adult popsicles.”
Sardella 7734 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.773.7755, Facebook: Sardella STL
His sweeter half “When (my wife, Sardella pastry chef Sarah Osborn and I) cook (at home), we both do it. I’ll do something savory, and she’ll do something pastry. … I have a huge sweet tooth.
PHOTO BY ASHLEY GIESEKING
Gerard Craft’s text message asked for a vegetarian dish, done Niche-style. Unbeknownst to Nick Blue, he was in the preliminary stages of a job interview for executive chef of Sardella, the concept that will replace Niche, Craft’s first restaurant and the one that earned him St. Louis’ first James Beard Foundation Award. Blue certainly has the resume to head up Sardella when it opens later this month. He began working with Craft in 2009, bouncing around between Brasserie, Niche and Taste before working his way up to executive chef of Brasserie. Here, Blue shares what he’s learned so far in the Niche Food Group. – Catherine Klene
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